Table Six Kitchen + Bar, the latest culinary venture from the owners of the 91 restaurants, is something different and adventuresome in an increasingly competitive dining landscape.

Table Six Kitchen + Bar, the latest culinary venture from the owners of the 91 restaurants, is something different and adventuresome in an increasingly competitive dining landscape.

The place is sleek, vast, cosmopolitan and wholly unrecognizable from the location's last restaurant, Darrah's, whose clientele was mainly senior citizens. Just wait till you get a look at the restroom layout.

The menu is all over the place, by design. At Table Six one can enjoy warm soft pretzels, maple pecan bacon and mac and cheese, but also ahi tuna tartare, Portugese fish stew and minted lamb burgers.

The idea is for customers to order a variety of items, share everything and settle in. Food arrives unpredictably as it is prepared, a startling concept for some. For those needing a more traditional meal pacing, that is doable as well.

I took a hungry friend with me on an early Sunday evening. With some pointers from our enthusiastic server, Steph, we selected a few starters, all excellent.

Maple pecan bacon ($5) arrived in a ceramic pink pig, four delectable slices of thick cut bacon, sticky with maple syrup and crusted with chopped pecans. Piggishly, I didn't want to share, but did.

Sweet corn creme brulee ($8), true to its title, was a rich corn custard topped with a carmelized crust of granulated sugar and sea salt. Sweet, salty, savory, I need more.

The shaved apple salad ($8) was fresh and refreshing, mixed greens, paper-thin sliced apples and apple vinaigrette with whipped goat cheese for contrast and a accompanied by a perfect flaky mini-croissant.

I'm still thinking about the shrimp & grits entree ($12), a bowl of the cheddar-cheesiest grits imaginable, topped with a pile of fiery blackened shrimp; the balance was perfect. It was rich and wonderful, and not something you'd find anywhere else around here.

I was inspired to order the most comfort-food item on the menu, turkey meatloaf with mashed potatoes and gravy ($14). There was nothing wrong with the generously portioned entree — the potatoes were stellar — but the meatloaf was just, well, meatloaf, with no flavor twist. (It could have been from Darrah's.) Sensing my lackluster reaction, the intuitive server instantly offered to bring me another entree if I wished.

This led me to the Portugese fish stew ($19), a bowl heaping with mussels, calimari, shrimp, cod and potatoes in a hearty broth, plus a hollowed out-half lemon filled with roasted-garlic aioli for dipping. Two pieces of bread are provided for soaking up the peasanty soup.

While we didn't feel like ordering alcohol that night, our server ascertained we are craft-beer fans and brought several shot-sized beer samples to the table, which fully lived up to her praise. During the leisurely visit, I noticed the music playing was cool (Band of Horses, Vampire Weekend), as are the decor touches of white ceramic deer heads and crystal chandeliers encircled with metal spheres.

On a second visit to Table Six, to interview executive chefs Julie Price and Jon Schuster (see accompanying story), Price made sure I tried a few more of the restaurant's offerings.

The salt and pepper calimari ($12) is a jumbo, certainly shareable of squid rings in light crispy batter, served atop crispy rice noodles and tossed with scallions, dried red chilies and a sweet chili sauce.

The most popular item on the Table Six menu is the pretzel board ($8), a glorious pile of freshly baked, still-warm and buttered soft pretzel rods with crocks of cheddar fondue and honey mustard for dipping.

An unexpected wow-factor item from the dessert menu is the Nutella panini ($7). Picture a perfect grilled-cheese sandwich with hazelnut spread instead of cheese, sprinkled with powdered sugar, sliced into strips and stacked Lincoln Log style, with toasted-marshmallow whipped cream for dipping.

One more thing: the restrooms. Instead of a men's room and women's room, Table Six has three women's rooms, two men's rooms and one marked for men and/or women, to be used separately, with two communal sinks in a foyer area. If this sounds, um, unusual, just wait until you are standing there.